The Blessings of the Bumpy Road

As you all have been following us through language school, you know that every journey has highs and lows. Sometimes the path is just plain bumpy, don't you hate that? Since I broke my toe I have REALLY noticed how bumpy life in Antigua can be. Although I can hobble in the house on my casted foot, outside its crutches all the way. From decayed sidewalks to uneven tiles, slanted paths, and the dreaded cobble stone streets I have had to keep my eyes on the road so as not to break more bones. I have also been jarred all over town in tuk-tuks with no shock absorbers. I have done my share of complaining about how crummy this town is for an invalid like me.

I have also constantly reminded myself that being on crutches back home in Minnesota in February would be no picnic either! Some of the things I had born with a stiff grin, suddenly have become blessings. Our apartment is quite small: how wonderful not to have to hobble far! My cooking area is minuscule: great I don't have to walk at all to cook! Two women invade the apartment every week to clean: wow what a blessing to have them do the work I could not do. Apparently as a result of constantly taking ibuprofen for the foot pain, I developed searing abdominal pain. GREAT! I went to see a doctor recommended by the school. He was great! He is a believer and he is the first Guatemalan medical person who is willing and able to give us our rabies vaccine. (This yucky and expensive task has been hanging over our head and after numerous visits to clinics and hospitals we had just about given up on getting our vaccinations done here.)

Today I ventured to the Bodegona, the "supermarket." Ben and Elena came along to help since I can't carry anything and I get pretty tuckered out on crutches. I think they were mostly in it for the tuk-tuk ride and the hope of a yogurt popsicle at Frutti-helado afterwards. As I gimped through the store using one of the few shopping carts, the kids did a great job of fetching items from the shelves. When Ben was sure he could reach a jug of juice that was a little too high, a Guatemalan grandma handed it to him and he grinned a "Gracias" to her. Crowded aisles miraculously cleared as I steered my cart with crutches sticking out. (Shopping at the Bodegona usually involves a lot of squishing around people.) At the checkout aisle the woman ahead of my insisted I go before her! At this point, Ben turned to me and grinned, "Mommy, you get everything done for you special!"

It dawned on me that I really have experienced extraordinary kindness, politeness, and generosity from Guatemalans since I broke my toe. Our landlady lent me her crutches and one day brought us dinner. A gentleman from church gave us a ride when he saw us waiting for the bus. The ushers brought me communion so I didn't have to hobble up to get it. Young and old have stepped off narrow sidewalks into the street so my crutches and I could keep going. Young men and old have offered to help me cross streets. Some have hailed tuk-tuks for me as well. It seems whenever I sit down and extra chair is offered for my foot. This is not to mention the numerous concerned inquiries about how I was injured and words of blessing and prayers for quick healing that are offered. My favorite sympathetic statement is "!Ay, pobrecita, y con todas las piedras en Antigua...imposible!" (Oh, you poor thing and with all the rocks in Antigua... impossible!)

Of course I can't leave out all the blessings of my family. Rick has taken up the task of grocery shopping, including the open market. I told him if he wanted better prices he should tell the vendors he is shopping for his family since his wife broke her foot. He also hoofed around town to track down medicine when none of the delivery pharmacies had it. The kids have taken on extra chores and errands to keep the house running. Our American neighbor, Andrea, watched the kids while Rick took me to the trauma doctor.

A Big Break in Belize!

Saturday morning we were up and out the door at 5:15 AM to take a taxi to the capital and catch a double decker luxury bus to the border of Guatemala. We were headed for Belize to renew our visas and relax after 4 straight months of language school. The travel plan was to get off the bus in Puerto Barrios, take a lancha (motorboat) across the bay to Belize, and take a prop plane to Placencia. The best laid plans....Enter: 20,000 motorcycles! Yes, the day we chose to travel was Guatemalan Sturgis! How does a double decker luxury bus share the road with 20,000 motorcyles? Very slowly and cautiously! We arrived in Puerto Barrios 3 hours late and a half hour after the last lancha took off across the bay. So we spent the night in a dive and headed for Belize the next morning.

Renewing visas is hard work and requires lots of sand, surf, and seafood! Placencia is an peninsula in southern Belize. We were so busy having fun we didn't take any pictures of the beach! So here is a link to the hotel where we stayed: www.westwindhotel.com. The weather was perfect, our little hotel was perfect, such bliss until Tuesday morning when a palm stump jumped up and broke Becky's toe as she was heading into the sea. Oh the pain and agony! We had been planning to take another route home and go toTikal in northern Guatemala. Tikal is an ancient Mayan city and some of the best ruins in the country. We nixed this plan as it involved a lot of walking. So on Wednesday morning we traveled in reverse. Only the Placencia airport was closed to repave its one runway! The airline

provided a water taxi across the lagoon to the next nearest airport and we were up in the air for 15 minutes, then took the lancha across the bay to Guatemala, got our passports stamped, and road the bus back to Guatemala city in record time. We took a LONG taxi ride back to Antigua. Due to continual construction on the highway between Antigua and Guatemala City, traffic is really backed up from 3pm on. But we made it home and we were all sound asleep by 9pm.

The next day Becky went to the doctor. X-rays confirmed a fractured proximal phalanx of the great toe (that's just for you medical types). The doctor gave me some quick acting pain meds and arranged my toe and made a shoe-type cast. I got a prescription for Toradol for three days. Ahh, an end to the excruciating pain!

The whole doctor's works cost about $60 US. Pretty amazing, huh? But remember that for the average worker in Guatemala that is over a week's salary. When was the last time you paid over a week's gross salary out of pocket for a doctor visit and treatment? Some workers do have an employer paid Social Security plan that entitles them to medical care. However these state funded medical services can be slow and limited. If you need surgery, you may be put on a long waiting list. Sometimes the medications you need may not be in stock. And getting to see a doctor may mean showing up early each day for several days until your name gets to the top of the list.

Now, Rick is learning to shop in the market...all the things I have down. I might have a 30 day break from those market trips. He is pretty familiar with the market and should do fine.

Transportation In Guatemala

CHICKEN BUS: A chicken bus is public bus transportaion. They buses are old school buses that have been redecorated inside and out. They are very affordable. A one way trip to Guatemala City (a trip that takes about 1 - 1.5 hours) costs about $1 US. Our 5 minute bus ride to the next town where we attend church costs us 20 cents per adult. Kids ride for free. The sign in the front of the bus tells the towns that the bus will go to. Besides the driver, there is a conductor who climbs in and out of the bus yelling where the bus is going and inviting people to get on. he collects the fares and he will help you get on and off the bus...quickly. Rick has ridden these buses to Guatemala City a few times now. They are very crowded, usually with 3 adults to a seat, possibly with children on laps. On Rick's last trip to Guatemala City, he was sitting in the aisle suspended in the air between the seats, someone was standing in front of him and in back. Chicken buses can be dangerous. Care must be taken with your belongings. Because there isn't really any personal space, it is a great place for pick-pockets. In addition, there have been several major accidents since we arrived. Buses travel so fast on the winding roads that they sometimes go off the road costing lives. At times was also hear about armed robberies of buses traveling between towns in the more desolate areas. But if you want to see Guatemala and experience a little of what Guatemalans experience, you need to ride a chicken bus. It may or may not get you where you are going on time, but it will definitely leave some memories.

TUK-TUK: These three wheeled taxis are like amusement park rides to our kids. They have no shock absorbers and dart in and out of traffic on Antigua's cobblestone streets. The standard fare in town is about $1.50. Tourists have been known to pay as much as $10 for a ride. Tuk-Tuk drivers "rent" the vehicle from the owner for about $20 for a 12 hour shift. Whatever the driver earns above this fee is his business and his to keep. (I say he because I have yet to see a female tuk-tuk driver). We use tuk-tuks to get home from the grocery store or market and to get around after dark. Tuk-tuks also aren't the safest. You are placing your life in the hands of the driver.

TOURIST VANS: These are a safer, though more expensive way to get from one town to another. From Antigua to the Guatemala City airport can cost from $5 to $25 per person, depending one the time of day and how "private" a ride you want. Five dollars gets you squashed in with as many other people and their luggage as can fit. Many times luggage ends up all around your feet and on your lap. If you have a bit of luggage, this is the way to go.

GUATEMALAN PULLMAN BUSES: Taking the Greyhound bus isn't really appealing in the States, but in Guatemala, it is much like flying, only roomier. There are different classes of travel. The first class buses provide air conditioning, movies, water, a functional bathroom, and meals. Lower class buses get you to the location. The cost of these buses is very reasonable. Our 6 hour trip on a bus cost $10 per person in a first class bus and on the return, about $7 in a second class bus. The first and second class buses have security and make fewer stops. I don't recommend riding a bus below second class. Like any travel anywhere, you need to keep an eye on your belongings.

HOOFIN' IT: This is our main mode of transportation. Antigua is only about 16 square blocks. We can get most of what we need within a mile of our little apartment. It keeps us in shape and is very hard on the shoes! Since we have talked a little about price and safety with each of these...the price of Hoofin' it is the possibility on a twisted ankle but more likely, sweat. As far as safety, you do need to keep an eye on your surroundings. For the most part, Antigua is safe but there are places you should not walk alone and it is best to stay in after 8 or 9 at night.

TOURIST TRANSPORTATION: For about $15 you can take an hour ride in a horse drawn carriage. We haven't done this yet, but might before we go. It looks fun from a distance, but be warned, we have noticed a certain smell when close up which makes us wonder if this is for us. Notice the goody bag hanging from the horses' behind!

Lago de Atitlan

We took weekend trip to "Lago de Atitlan." This huge lake was created by volcanic eruptions. The lake is over 900 feet deep and we are told it is has large mouth bass. Three volcanoes tower over the southern part of the lake. Steep mountains and a few smaller volcanoes surround the rest of the lake. We rented a car for the weekend as this was cheaper for us than taking the tourist vans back and forth. Actually having a car for two days was a highlight of the trip! We could leave and return at will, stop when we wanted, or when we needed. The kids both got carsick within the first hour of the trip.

There are very few straight roads in our part of Guatemala! We pondered an official Guatemala map and the hand-drawn map the hotel had faxed us as we made our way to Lago de Atitlan. We got off track once, but friendly Guatemalans offered help. The hotel map indicated a section labeled "23 turns." It was actually 23 very tight, steep switchbacks down the side of the moutain! Boy was Becky glad Rick was at the wheel. The chicken buses and tourist vans take these switchbacks at breakneck speed!

We stayed at a lodge on the southwestern edge of the lake. San Juan La Laguna is not a tourist hotspot since you can't see the big volcanoes from there. We were thrilled to have some peace and quiet overlooking the lake. Except for the mountains, it felt like the North Shore. The kids

and Rick were brave enough to jump off the dock into the frigid water. They climbed right back out again. We also did a little kayaking. Sunday morning we took a lancha (water taxi) across the lake to another town for lunch and a view of the volcanoes.

All too soon we packed up and headed home. We didn't want to be driving after dark in case we lost our way. Unfortunately armed robbery/carjacking is a real danger for foreigners in Guatemala. We were delighted to stop for dinner at Burger King in Chimaltenango. We do have a Burger King here in Antigua, but this Burger King had a parking lot and drive through!